December 2023 Bordeaux News Roundup — Indianapolis Commanderie de Bordeaux

A few notes of interest about Bordeaux this month:

*Philippe Raoux Passes Away:  Jane Anson has an obituary and personal remembrance of Margaux winemaker Philippe Raoux who passed away in late October.  Raoux was responsible for the renaissance of Chateau d’Arsac and his fight for his vines to be included in AOC Margaux. He expanded his holdings in Bordeaux and had the dubious honor of being the first to sell a property to the Chinese. He sold Château Viaud to COFCO in 2011.  More from Jane Anson

*Buying Wine at Auction:  With several big sales scheduled for the end if the year, wine writers Mike Disimone and Jeff Jenssen have a great article via Robb Report on how to analyze offerings and play it safe when it comes to old Bordeaux. They specifically note the “Fine Wine from the Cellar of Quincy Jones & A Diplomat’s Collection of Rarities” from Christies which runs until December 11.  The auction features offerings of Pétrus and  Cheval Blanc as well as some old bottles like Cos d’Estournel 1928, Latour 1933, and Mouton 1934. Their take?  Prices may not be as sky high this year, but even then, sometimes the old collector bottles don’t deliver.

*Pulling Vines:  In recent years, the CIVB and French government have been working on a proposal to pay winemakers to take nearly 9% of vines out of production. However, as prices have continued to fall, some growers are already making the removals. Government talks continue on payments and subsidies, for this overhaul of Bordeaux wine growing. Writer Gemma Hadley has been covering the progress so far at Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux. And a detailed feature on the whole project, the motivations, and potential impact from Rudy Ruitenberg at Decanter.

*What Gives People Red-wine Headaches?  Wine educator Jamie Goode has a new theory about what might give some people the red-wine headache.  Hint: It’s not sulfites. He posits it’s quercetin, a flavanol found naturally in grapes that affects some people negatively after interacting with alcohol.   More from his latest in Wine Anorak.  And don’t forget his newest book — The New Viticulture:  The Science of Growing Grapes for Wine.

Wine Spectator Top 100:  The annual list is out and some Bordeaux faves make a strong showing on the list.  The 2020 Château Lynch Bages weighs in at #3, followed by another Paulillac favorite, the 2020 Château Pichon Baron at #8. Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste’s 2020 is #18 followed by the 2020 Château Gruaud-Larose (St-Julien) at #25. Here’s the full list. 

Christmas in Bordeaux:  Gearing up for your holiday travel? The Bordeaux tourism bureau has a guide for anyone spending the Christmas holidays in Bordeaux with recommendations for displays of lights, tasty treats, and special performances. Don’t forget to visit Bordeaux’s famous Christmas market lining the Allées de Tourny with traditional stands, gifts, and street food treats.  Open through 27 December.

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