A few notes of interest from Bordeaux this month:
Harvest 2023: Harvest is underway. It’s always interesting to me to note how harvest works in Bordeaux. It feels like a more leisurely affair since there are so many varietals and they come in at such different times. Not like areas that only grow 1 or 2 kinds of grapes that have to all come in at once. As of the end of September
*More on harvest across France (the Bordeaux report is about halfway down) from Winesearcher.
*More from Jane Anson:
*More from Rare Wine Investor:
Night Harvesting: The new normal? Climate change and fall heat are driving some changes in how chateaux harvest and bring in grapes. From Phys.org
What is mildew in wine? The big concern with the 2023 Bordeaux vintage is mildew. Late rain this summer means many vineyards are susceptible to infestation. Those who are organic (or biodynamic) have fewer options when it comes to treatment. Decanter has a good overview on what mildew is and why it causes so many worries, plus the areas affected.
And a more technical overview on mildew and why is it such a problem from Winesearcher.
Rudy – back at it again? Wine authenticator Maureen Downey says she believes Rudy is back and counterfeiting again. He is out of prison and has been deported. Some in the wine world say he’s in Asia trying to go straight. Who knows? The lesson is buyer beware when it comes to old and large format bottles. The auction houses are definitely not authenticating or pulling these bottles. Who is Downey? She can be a bit of a controversial figure herself, but there’s no question that she knows her stuff when it comes to authenticating bottles and raising red flags about counterfeit wines.
For anyone who missed the whole Rudy Kurniwan counterfeiting scandal the first time around, try Peter Hellman’s book In Vino Duplicitas: The Rise and Fall of a Wine Forger Extraordinaire.
Looking for a retirement plan? The Times has a great feature on the number of available estates in Bordeaux and the incentives sellers may have for enticing people to move to the region and try their hand at winemaking. Of course, that means equipment, staff, and a good consultant, but it’s only money, right? More on how to move to France and become a winemaking star (paywalled).
Château Montrose Retrospective: Often, during the year, the houses of Bordeaux plan retrospectives. Like a survey of an artist’s work, retrospective tastings often feature 30 year or more verticals so journalists can report on how vintages are developing. Sarah Mayo reports on a July tasting at Chateau Montrose featuring wines from 1893 to 2021. In an interesting twist, wines were divided into cool/wet years and hotter/dryer years.
Look for reporting from Domaine Chevalier which hosted a 30 vintage tasting last week giving journalists a chance to see how their wines have evolved.
Speaking of cool climates wine: Panos Kakaviatos in Wine Review Online covers a 50th anniversary tasting at Château Clarke, owned by Baron Edmond de Rothschild who has invested heavily in the property in the past 5 decades. Rehabbing vineyards deep in the coldest part of the Medoc may not have seemed like a great move before climate change began making itself evident in winemaking. Today, it seems like a great play and the wines seem to show it. I’m re-adding this chateau to my list.
King Charles III in Bordeaux: On his recent visit to France, King Charles III made a visit to Pessac-Leognan based Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte. He was be greeted by the Cathiard family who have a focus on organic and climate friendly techniques. More from Jane Anson.
He also visited a few sites familiar to Bordeaux visitors and even rode the tram.
The French threw a state dinner for King Charles at Versailles. The menu? lobster and crab cake; corn-fed Bresse chicken; 30-month Comté cheese from France and Stilton from Britain with mirabelle plum jelly; and Pierre Hermé’s famous dessert – Ispahan (sort of a giant macaron).
- Pol Roger, Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 2013 en magnum
- Olivier Leflaive, Bâtard Montrachet 2018 en magnum
- Château Mouton Rothschild 2004 en jeroboam
Connecting. Creating. 
Leave a comment