February 2024 Commanderie de Bordeaux Newsletter

Bordeaux Wine Merchants File Court Cases:  While the French still wrestle with the idea of “Dry January” as an initiative that has “never been backed by the state”, it still gets a lot of play – especially when it comes to the powerful wine lobby.  More news from Bordeaux via wine searcher on several court cases in Bordeaux counts alleging depressed negociant pricing.  More on the issue in Jane Anson’s January News Digest.

The Barrel Maker:  The depth of winter is a great time to dive into a little bit about how winemaking in Bordeaux works. Wine writer Randy Smith of The Wine Write blog has a nice story on cooperage with Jean-Luc Sylvain of Tonnellerie Sylvain covering his life, philosophy and innovation. 

Lafite Buys Fevre:  Lots of buzzy news last week about Domaines des Barons de Rothschild – owner of Château Lafite Rothschild and their purchase of Chablis powerhouse Domaine Fevre. The DBR portfolio includes a who’s-who of international domaines, but this is their first purchase in Burgundy. Apparently Fevre was in talks with Pinsault group last year.  More from Wine Searcher.

Starting a Bordeaux Collection:  January is the time for inventories, planning purchases, and preparation for en primeur.  Jancis Robinson has an article on starting a Bordeaux collection and assessing your budgets and goals not to mention tips and tricks for storage, lists to watch, and purchasing.

For Listening:  Speaking of collecting – or managing a collection, Elin McCoy sits down with Nick Pegna, the new head of Sotheby’s Global Wine and Spirits  for a conversation about fine wines, auctions, and his vision for the future of the business.  Listen via her website

Discovering Graves and Sauternes:  Wine Enthusiast has a nice primer on the Graves-Sauternes region including the history, wines, and producers. A good overview for those still discovering wines from some of the less known regions of Bordeaux, especially those with a little unexpected personality.

2019 Vintage Notes from Fine Wine International: The 2019 Bordeaux vintage was an exceptional year for the region, producing wines of remarkable quality and character. The weather conditions throughout the growing season were near-ideal, with a mild winter followed by a warm spring and a dry, sunny summer. These favorable conditions allowed the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly, resulting in wines that showcase both power and elegance. 

The red wines from the Left Bank, particularly those from the prestigious appellations of Pauillac, Margaux, and Saint-Julien, exhibit deep color, intense fruit flavors, and well-integrated tannins. On the Right Bank, the Merlot-dominated wines from Pomerol and Saint-Émilion display rich, ripe fruit and a velvety texture. 

Overall, the 2019 Bordeaux vintage is highly regarded by critics and wine enthusiasts alike, with many considering it to be one of the finest vintages in recent memory.

Cork Dorks:  Vinepair answers the question “Is it a mistake if the somm doesn’t present the cork”? The WinePro interviews Liz Rogero, beverage director at Fausto in Brooklyn. She gives the right answer – she opens the bottle away from the table and checks it for flaws before presenting it to guests.

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